Clothing Technology Europa Lehrmittel Haan

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	"UNIQUE IN SCOPE AND PRESENTATION"
	Clothing Technology ...from fibre to fashion 5th ed 2008 304 pages, numerous colour illustrations, hardcover € 39,80 (freight will be charged additionally) Adapted translation of the 9th ed 2007 of “Fachwissen Bekleidung”
	CLOTHING TECHNOLOGY is a vocational book, directed primarily at students of the clothing industry: sewing, cutting, garment assembly, men’s and women’s tailoring. It will also be found useful in courses for supervisors and technicians, and as a general reference work. A key feature of the book is its concise and compact design – a prerequisite for summarising such a wide range of material in a single volume. Each page is complete in itself. Particular emphasis has been laid on providing a simple layout and straightforward language, which students will find easy to grasp. Numerous colour diagrams are an effective aid to the comprehension of some of the more difficult topics. In this English version an attempt has been made to present a more international perspective. Wherever possible, ISO standards have been referenced. At all stages, account is taken of the latest scientific findings and the practical experience of the industry.

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	The publishing company Verlag Europa-Lehrmittel was founded in 1948. Achieving its initial success in the field of metal technology, the publisher quickly became one of the leading suppliers of teaching and learning materials in vocational training and further education in Germany. Our books and software products were and are an integral part of instruction on vocational schools, in-house training programmes, seminars and courses. Based on a reliable, student-oriented presentation, they have always adapted to - and often influenced - developments in the schools and the occupations themselves. Our wide range includes books and software on: Metal Technology, Automotive Engineering, Electrical Engineering/Electronics, Civil Engineering, Wood Engineering, Physics and Chemistry, Computer Technology, Clothing and Textile Working, Domestic Science / Nutrition, Economy. Verlag Europa-Lehrmittel P.O. Box 420464 42404 Haan Germany EMAIL US

	FREE CHAPTERS AT A GLANCE
	Animal Fibres: Wool Ecology and the Textile Pipeline Textured Yarns Warp Knitted Fabrics Coating and Lamination Ribbons and Decorations Sewing Machines, Overview Industry Sectors and Product Groups Garment Production Systems Production Management Target Groups and Quality Levels All Preview Chapters in one Download-File - 2,62 MB SITE NOTICE Verlag Europa-Lehrmittel Nourney, Vollmer GmbH & Co. KG Kommanditgesellschaft, Sitz Haan, Amtsgericht Mettmann HRA 2100 Persönlich haftender Gesellschafter: Schul- und Fachbuchverlag Nourney, Vollmer & Co. GmbH, Sitz Haan-Gruiten, Amtsgericht Mettmann HRA 2954 Geschäftsführer: Dipl.-Kfm. Joachim Nourney M. Sc. Ust.-IdNr. DE 121380700 Verantwortlich im Sinne des MDStV: Wolfgang Baldauf Düsselberger Str. 23 42781 Haan-Gruiten Tel.: 02104 6916-0 Fax: 02104 6916-27 E-Mail: infoATeuropa-lehrmittel.de

	CLOTHING TECHNOLOGY		TABLE OF CONTENTS
	You can explore CLOTHING TECHNOLOGY online chapter by chapter. We offer 11 chapters to preview, some of them even in full PDF-Quality. To get a chapter´s overview click the different chapters on the right. Please use this link above if your system doesn´t provide Adobe Acrobat Reader.		1 Fibres 2 Yarns 3 Textile Fabrics 4 Dyeing and Finishing 5 Fabric Descriptions 6 Leather and Fur 7 Clothing Manufacture 8 Organisation of Clothing Manufacture 9 Product Design 10 Product Groups 11 History of Clothing

	Preface 9th German Edition	3
	Preface 9th English Edition	3

1	FIBRES	6
1.1	Overview	6
1.2	Natural Fibres	8
1.2.1	Cotton	8
1.2.2	Flax	12
1.2.3	Other Vegetable Fibres	15
1.2.4	Whool	16	FREE CHAPTER
1.2.5	Hair Fibres	20
1.2.6	Silk	21

1.3	Man-made fibres	25
1.3.1	Composition of Textile Fibres	25
1.3.2	Fibre-forming Materials	26
1.3.3	Spinning Man-made Fibres	27
1.3.4	Natural Polymer Fibres	28
1.3.5	Viscose, Modal	29
1.3.6	Lyocell	31
1.3.7	Cupro, Acetate, Triacetate	32
1.3.8	Synthetic Polymer Fibres	33
1.3.9	Polyamide; Nylon	34
1.3.10	Polyester	36
1.3.11	Acrylic, Modacrylic	38
1.3.12	Elastane, Fluoro, Chloro, Olefin, Vinylal	39
1.3.13	Glass, Carbon, Metal	40

1.4	Fibre Properties, Fibre Identification	41
1.5	Textile Blending	44
1.6	Textile Labelling	45
1.7	Textile Aftercare	46
1.8	Functions of Clothing	48
1.8.1	Basic Functions and Requirements	48
1.8.2	Clothing Physiology	49
1.8.3	Functional Textiles	50
1.9	Ecology and the Textile Pipeline	55	FREE CHAPTER

	PREVIOUS CHAPTER		CONTENTS

2	YARNS	58
2.1	Fundamentals	58
2.2	Spinning Systems	60
2.2.1	Overview	60
2.2.2	Whool Spinning	60
2.2.3	Cotton Spinning	62
2.2.4	Other Sinning Systems	63
2.3	Folded Yarns, Plied Yarns	64
2.4	Fancy Yarns	65
2.5	Textured Yarns	66	FREE CHAPTER
2.6	Review of Yarn Types	67
2.7	Yarn Numbering	68
2.8	Yarn Properties	70
2.9	Sewing Threads	70

	PREVIOUS CHAPTER		CONTENTS

3	TEXTILE FABRICS	71
3.1	Overview	71
3.2	Woven Fabrics	71
3.2.1	Wooven Fabrics Manufacture	71
3.2.2	Priciples of Cloth Construction	74
3.2.3	Basis Weaves and Variations	75
3.2.4	Colour Wooven Fabrics	79
3.2.5	Crepe Fabrics	80
3.2.6	Fabriocs with Three Yarn Systems	81
3.2.7	Fabrics with Four or More Yarn Systems	83
3.2.8	Pique Fabrics	84
3.3	Knitted Fabrics	85
3.3.1	Calassification of Knitted Fabrics	85
3.3.2	Weft Knitted Fabrics	86
3.3.3	Warp Knitted Fabrics	92	FREE CHAPTER
3.4	Special Fabrics	94
3.4.1	Open-Work Fabrics	94
3.4.2	Nonwoven Fabrics	95
3.4.3.	Stich-bonded and Tufted Fabrics	97
3.5	Comparioson of Textile Fabrics	98

	PREVIOUS CHAPTER		CONTENTS

4	DYEING AND FINISHING	99
4.1	Fundamentals	99
4.2	Preparation	100
4.3	Coloration	101
4.3.1	Dyeing	101
4.3.2	Dyestuffs, Colour Fastness	102
4.3.3	Printing	103
4.4	Intermediate Processes	105
4.5	Finishing	106
4.5.1	Mechnical Finishing	106
4.5.2	Chemical Finishing	108
4.6	Coating and Lamination	109	FREE CHAPTER

	PREVIOUS CHAPTER		CONTENTS

5	FABRIC DESCRIPTIONS	110
5.1	Fabric Inspections	110
5.2	Commercial Names of Fabrics	111
5.3	Accessoires, Trimmings	131
5.3.1	Interlinings	131
5.3.2	Linings	132
5.3.3	Ribbeons and Decorations	133	FREE CHAPTER
5.3.4	Fastenings	134

	PREVIOUS CHAPTER		CONTENTS

6	LEATHER AND FUR	135
6.1	Leather Manufacture	135
6.2	Leather Types	137
6.3	Leather Garment Manufacture	138
6.4	Fur Types	139
6.5	Pelt Preparation	140
6.6	Pelt finishing	141
6.7	From Pelt to Fur Clothing	141

	PREVIOUS CHAPTER		CONTENTS

7	CLOTHING MANUFACTURE	144
7.1	Equipment and Methods for Design and Cutting	144
7.1.1	Design, Pattern Construction	144
7.1.2	Pattern Grading	145
7.1.3	Making a Lay Plan	147
7.1.4	Types of Lay Plan	149
7.1.5	Spreading	150
7.1.6	Cutting	152
7.1.7	Preparation for Sewing	153
7.1.8	Drawing and Measuring Tools	154
7.1.9	Hand Sewing Tools	155
7.1.10	Cutting Tools	156
7.2	Equipment and Methods for Sewing	158
7.2.1	Types of Sewing Machine	158
7.2.2	Sewing Machines, Overview	159	FREE CHAPTER
7.2.2	Construction of a Sewing Machine	160
7.2.4	Moving Parts of a Sewing Machine	161
7.2.5	Sewing Machine Needles	162
7.2.6	Feeding Systems	164
7.2.7	Presser Feet and Fabric Guides	166
7.2.8	Shuttles, Hooks and Loopers	168
7.2.9	Stich Types	169
7.2.10	Lockstich	170
7.2.11	Chain Stich	172
7.2.12	Multi-thread Stain Stich	173
7.2.13	Overedge Chain Stich	174
7.2.14	Flat Seam Stiches, Covering Stitches	176
7.2.15	Blind Stitching	177
7.2.16	Seam Types	178
7.2.17	Sewing Machine Drives	183
7.2.18	Anchillary Mechanisms for Hihg Speed Sewing Machines	184
7.2.19	Automatic Sewing Machines	185
7.2.20	Automated Sewing Equipment	186
7.2.21	Welded Seams	187
7.3	Problems in Sewing	188
7.3.1	Seam Puckering	188
7.3.2	Fabric Damage, Sewing Faults	189
7.4	Equipment and Methods for Pressing an Fusing	190
7.4.1	Pressing	190
7.4.2	Fusing	195
7.5	Health amd Safety	197

	PREVIOUS CHAPTER		CONTENTS

8	ORGANISATION OF CLOTHING MANUFACTURE	202
8.1	Overview	202
8.2	Materialm Flow	203
8.3	Indistrie Sectors and Product Groups	204	FREE CHAPTER
8.4	Garment Production Systems	205
8.5	Method Study	206
8.6	Systems and Processes	209
8.7	Company Structure and Organisation	210
8.8	Organisational Structure	211
8.9	Production Management	212	FREE CHAPTER
8.10	Work Measurement	215
8.11	Quality Assurance	218
8.12	Use of Computers	220

	PREVIOUS CHAPTER		CONTENTS

9	PRODUCT DESIGN	223
9.1	Target Groups an Quality Levels	223	FREE CHAPTER
9.2	Planning an Collection	224
9.3	Developing a Collection	225
9.4	Elements of Clothing Design	226
9.5	Design Infuences	227
9.6	Proportion	228
9.7	Control Dimensions	229
9.8	Body Types, Size Intervals	230
9.9	Size Charts, Size Codes	231
	PREVIOUS CHAPTER		CONTENTS

10	PRODUCT GROUPS	232
10.1	Underwear Nightwear	232
10.2	Foundation Garments, Swimmwear	234
10.3	Babywear, Childrenswaer	235
10.4	Men´s Shirts	236
10.5	Workwear, Carreer Apparel	237
10.6	Skirts	238
10.7	Blouses	240
10.8	Dresses	241
10.9	Knitted Outerwaer	242
10.10	Trousers	243
10.11	Jackets	244
10.12	Coats	245
10.13	Women´s Outfits	246
10.14	Men´s Outfits	247
10.15	Formal Dress	248
10.16	Sport and Leisure Clothing	249
10.17	Accessoires	250


	PREVIOUS CHAPTER		CONTENTS

11	HISTORY OF CLOTHING	254
11.1	Chronological Summary	254
11.2	Fashion	255
11.3	Ancient Egypt	256
11.4	Ancient Greece	258
11.5	Ancient Rome	260
11.6	Germanic Prehistory and Early Times	262
11.7	Byzantine Middle Ages	264
11.8	Roanesque	266
11.9	Gothic	268
11.10	Renaissance	271
11.11	Baroque	274
11.12	Rococo	276
11.13	Neo-classicism: English Fashion Directoire and Empire	278
11.14	Neo-classicism: Biedermeier	280
11.15	Romanticism, Neo-rococo, and the Victorin Era	282
11.16	Belle Epoque, Reform; Art Noouveau	284
11.17	The Twenties	286
11.18	The Thirties	288
11.19	The Forties	289
11.20	The Fifties	290
11.21	The Sixties	291
11.22	The Seventies	292
11.23	The Eighties	293
11.24	The Nineties	294
11.25	The New Millenium	295
11.26	Glossar of Special Terms	296

	PREVIOUS CHAPTER		CONTENTS

Bibliography		298
Index of Technical Term		299
Acknowledgements		304
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